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Poetry of Surfer dejected by Patana

Photo: Francesco Salvadori

our photographer and surfer Francesco Salvadori,

this evening in a fit of hysteria from lack of waves,

wrote this poem about Facebook,

I saw and I wanted to put it on the blog, because

I think that reflects the mood of the Ligurian Sea

..

Photo: Francesco Salvadori-Killer spot

I want to stay in the water;

to feel the salt that burns my lips and eyes,

of the sun that I crack the skin,

of cold feet and hands,

of fatigue swim

to stay underwater for ten seconds after a wipe out,

of failing to take the same wave but be happy,

to see the sun going down and really feel him close,

out in pain but knowing that I expect a beer with friends,

to laugh at shit made in water,

hoping for another beautiful day in that way,

to feel free,

to scream .... ...

Photo: Francesco Salvadori

"long live the surf."

Photo: Francesco Salvadori

"long live the surf."

Poetry and photos by: Francesco Salvadori

Comment from: Andrea Reedy